When a wildfire threatens, follow these last-minute steps developed by The Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety (IBHS) to reduce damage to your business.

  Stay safe. Always evacuate if you feel it’s unsafe to stay. DO NOT wait to receive an emergency notification if you feel threatened from a fire.

  If wildfires may be nearby, put your Business Continuity Plan (OFB- EZ) and Emergency Preparedness Plan (EZ-PREP) into action. Begin last-minute preparations. Note that employees may need time to prep their homes as well.

  Install your fire-resistant shutters. If you do not have fire-resistant shutters, installing ½-inch plywood will provide an extra measure of protection from radiant heat and windblown embers (but not flames).

  Move pallets, tables and chairs, benches, outdoor equipment, signage, inventory, and loose items inside.

  For apartment and condominium complexes, request all residents to clear balconies, porches, and breezeways of all items including furniture and plants.

  Shut off HVAC to keep out smoke.

  Close doors and windows.Shut all interior and exterior doors and windows. Close commercial garage doors all the way.

  Cover vents. If your vents are easily accessible and you do not have the metal mesh covers, a lightweight material (such as sheet metal or ½- inch plywood) can be installed. These covers should be removed once the fire front passes.

  Leave your property easily seen and accessible for firefighters. Open your gate(s), leave a ladder, and leave your lights on so they can  see your building under smoky conditions.

  Evacuate.

Source: The Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety

The recommendation(s), advice and contents of this material are provided for informational purposes only and do not purport to address every possible legal obligation, hazard, code violation, loss potential or exception to good practice. The Hanover Insurance Company and its affiliates and subsidiaries ("The Hanover") specifically disclaim any warranty or representation that acceptance of any recommendations or advice contained herein will make any premises, property or operation safe or in compliance with any law or regulation. Under no circumstances should this material or your acceptance of any recommendations or advice contained herein be construed as establishing the existence or availability of any insurance coverage with The Hanover. By providing this information to you, The Hanover does not assume (and specifically disclaims) any duty, undertaking or responsibility to you. The decision to accept or implement any recommendation(s) or advice contained in this material must be made by you

LC 2021-360

The research on fire retardant gels for wildfire protection

In a study conducted in collaboration with the University of North Carolina at Charlotte, the Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety (IBHS) evaluated the long-term effectiveness of fire-retardant gels when applied to a wood-based substrate. These gels are a type of coating meant to provide protection over a period of a few hours and are typically applied manually just prior to the arrival of a wildfire. The gels act as a protective heat sink on the material they are applied to, reducing the effects of thermal exposure and therefore potential to ignite.

 The operating principle of these fire-retardant gels is based on hydration and their effectiveness is reduced as the gels lose moisture. Wind speed and relative humidity affect the dehydration rate. High wind speed and low relative humidity are common conditions when wildland fires threaten homes. These conditions caused gels to dehydrate more than 10 times faster than moderate conditions (low wind speed and high relative humidity).

Two products were tested in this study: Gel Type A used a vegetable cooking oil-based mixing agent; Gel Type B used a petroleum-based mixing agent.

Key findings:

• Fully hydrated, both gels tested can increase the time-to-ignition from 15 seconds to over 7 minutes.
• At 50 percent dehydration from initial mass, the time-to-ignition was reduced by nearly half: from over 7 minutes to 4 minutes for Gel A, and less than 3 minutes for Gel B.
• In a realistic wildland fire scenario of 10 percent relative humidity and a wind speed of 10 m/s (22 mph) both gels reach 50 percent dehydration in less than 1.5 hours and full dehydration1 in 7 hours.
• A completely dehydrated petroleum-based mixing agent gel may create a hazardous condition more susceptible to ignition than untreated T1-11 plywood.
• During application, the gel can clog the spray nozzle which may be difficult to clean and adds additional time to the process.
• Removal and cleanup of fire-retardant gels after a fire has been reported to pose some challenges for homeowners. However, once dehydrated the products tested could be peeled off easily.

IBHS conclusions:

• Time is against you ― Fire retardant gels dehydrate, sometimes quickly. They can lose their effectiveness after only a few hours.
• Gels can become a fire hazard ― When completely dehydrated, some gels may create a hazardous condition more susceptible to burning than untreated plywood.
• Application issues ― Applying gels can be cumbersome. It can consume precious time you and your family need to evacuate safely.
• Leave it to professionals ― Gels can be effective if applied by firefighters a short period of time before the fire reaches your home.

Source: IBHS 

The recommendation(s), advice and contents of this material are provided for informational purposes only and do not purport to address every possible legal obligation, hazard, code violation, loss potential or exception to good practice. The Hanover Insurance Company and its affiliates and subsidiaries ("The Hanover") specifically disclaim any warranty or representation that acceptance of any recommendations or advice contained herein will make any premises, property or operation safe or in compliance with any law or regulation. Under no circumstances should this material or your acceptance of any recommendations or advice contained herein be construed as establishing the existence or availability of any insurance coverage with The Hanover. By providing this information to you, The Hanover does not assume (and specifically disclaims) any duty, undertaking or responsibility to you. The decision to accept or implement any recommendation(s) or advice contained in this material must be made by you.

LC 2021-361

Wildfires are a risk throughout the U.S. and pose a significant threat to buildings and lives in wildfire-prone areas. As more and more businesses expand into the wildland-urban interface—or WUI, a term used to designate wildfire-prone areas where homes and businesses are also located—the wildfire risk to businesses will also grow. In this environment, business protection must take into account both the materials and design features of the building, as well as the selection, location and maintenance of land­scape plants, including grasses, shrubs, bushes and trees.

Our Risk Solutions Partner, the Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety (IBHS) provides an overview of wildfire hazards, mitigation strategies, useful resources and a step-by-step process for reducing wildfire risks.

Three sources of wildfire ignition 

First, understanding how wildfires can threaten your property can help you make appropriate plans to protect your staff and property.

Most people associate wildfire damage with direct flame contact from the wildfire as it burns past the building. However, buildings also can be damaged or destroyed when they are exposed to burning embers and/or radiant heat. Building ignitions during wildfires occur when a component of a building is exposed to one or more of these three wildfire exposures.

1. Burning embers

Burning embers (also called firebrands), and wind-blown burning embers in particular, are the most frequent cause of building ignitions. These embers are generated by the burning wildfire itself, as well as by combustible items the wildfire has previously ignited, such as landscape plants, which includes grasses, shrubs, bushes and trees. Importantly, burning embers can travel for long distances before landing on or near a building.

Embers can ignite buildings in several ways:

• Embers can ignite combustible construction materials directly when accumulating on or immediately adjacent to them. Combustible construction materials are those that ignite and burn such as wood, plastic, and wood-plastic products used in decking and siding.
• Embers can ignite nearby plants and accumulated debris such as pine needles or other combustible materials such as a wood pile.
• Embers can enter a building through openings, such as an open window or attic vent, and ignite combustible items inside the building.

2. Direct flame contact

Direct flame contact refers to actual flames from the wildfire coming into contact with buildings or combustible items attached to or near the building.

3. Radiant heat

Fire generates radiant heat (the heat you feel when standing near an open flame). If it is high enough and the duration is long enough, radiant heat can ignite a combustible product (such as wood siding) or break the glass in a window. Additionally, exposures to lower levels of radiant heat can pre-heat materials, making them easier to ignite from a direct flame contact exposure.

Know your fire hazard severity zone

Fire Hazard Severity Zones (FHSZ) represent the wildfire hazard in a particular area based on an evaluation of the plants and landscaping, fire history, slope and other terrain features that may impact the growth and spread of fire. Zones are typically classified as “moderate,” “high,” or “extreme” (also referred to as “very high”).

Businesses can request the FHSZ rating and other relevant information from local building or fire officials in their area. Depending on the construction ordinances in a given community, certain requirements regarding materials and other construction details can be based on the FHSZ, which is also relevant to landscaping, maintenance, and other operational decisions.

Below are some of the most important considerations when readying your property for wildfire season.

1. Building setback

Buildings and structures should be set back a minimum of 30 ft from any property line adjacent to a national forest, state park, open space preserve, or other protected wildland.

2. Vegetation management plan (VMP)

Both naturally occurring plants and species introduced into an area influence the potential for fire to spread to buildings located on the property—with some plants, like junipers, being more likely to ignite than others. Because plants vary greatly from region to region, IBHS provides links to detailed, region-specific information at DisasterSafety.org/ibhs-risks-wildfire/ibhs-regional-wildfire-guides/.

A Vegetation management plan (VMP) may be required in certain wildfire-prone areas. A VMP provides important information about the land, such as:

• Topography (slope and aspect).
• Location of building(s) on the land.
• Proposed fuel treatment details (suggested actions such as thinning and prescribed burning to minimize wildfire risks).
• Environmental concerns (threatened and endangered species, state-listed sensitive species and wetlands, etc.).

Plants used around the building should have low combustibility characteristics such as high moisture content, low oil or resin content, deep roots with thick heavy leaves, and minimal production of dead vegetation.

The VMP also provides detailed information on how the three defensible space zones (see below) will be developed and maintained. When developing a VMP, consult a landscape professional such as a forester, range manager, or natural resource specialist.

3. Fire hydrants

Fire hydrants should be located no more than 250 feet from the primary building and connected to a reliable public or private water source.

4. Exterior wall cladding

Noncombustible siding materials such as concrete and brick will provide the greatest fire protection from flames, embers, and radiant heat.

The distance between the ground and the bottom of the siding on the exterior wall affects a building’s vulnerability, particularly when walls are made of materials that can ignite. The building code generally calls for 6 inches of clearance between the ground and the start of the siding.

5. Windows

Using dual-paned windows with tempered glass will reduce the vulnerability of windows.

Operational windows should have screens covering those sections that can open. Always close windows when wildfire threatens.

6. Vents

At a minimum, vents should be covered with 1/8-inch noncombustible mesh screening. This will minimize the size of embers that can enter into the attic or crawlspace area.

Vents that are perpendicular to the flow of wind, such as a gable end vent or those in under-eave blocking, are more vulnerable to ember entry. Ridge vents that are rated to resist the entry of wind-driven rain or vents in boxed-in under-eave construction are better options.

7. Roofs

Since the roof is a large, relatively horizontal surface covering the building, it is often considered the most vulnerable component, particularly from an ember exposure perspective.

Fire ratings for roof coverings are either Class A, B or C (or, in the case of a non-fire-retardant-treated wood shake covering, not rated). IBHS recommends a Class A covering. For low-slope roofs, a Class A–rated roof cover includes testing and rating of the entire roof system assembly, which includes the roof cover, insulation, vapor or air barriers, and the type of deck. Examples of roof systems considered to be Class A regardless of the deck type include built-up roofing and ballasted single-ply membranes.

There are a number of Class A–rated steep-slope roof coverings, including asphalt composition shingles, clay tile and steel. Some Class A tile designs provide for an opening at the eave end and ridge. These openings should be plugged with a noncombustible material to minimize entry of embers in the area under the roof covering.

8. Gutters and downspouts

Gutters and downspouts should be made of noncombustible materials such as aluminum. The gutter should incorporate an integral metal flashing at the roof edge, or a separate flashing should be used at the roof edge. Debris should be regularly removed from roof and gutters, since it can be ignited by wind-blown embers.

9. Signage

All signage should be made from noncombustible materials.

10. Combustible storage

Outdoor storage of large quantities of combustible and flammable liquids should be located in detached noncombustible buildings more than 50 ft away from other buildings.

11. Defensible space

Defensible space around the building should be planned and maintained.

What is defensible space?

Defensible space is the area between a building and an approaching wildfire, where vegetation and other combustible materials have been managed to reduce the wildfire threat and improve the likelihood of a building surviving without assistance from firefighters, as described in “Fire Adapted Communities: The Next Step in Wildfire Preparedness,” University of Nevada Cooperative Extension, Publication SP-10-10.

This space is organized into three zones.

To create defensible space around your business, it’s important to understand how plants and other materials should be selected, located and managed around the property. Proper management will reduce the opportunity for the fire (or any spot fires from ember ignitions) to burn to the building, and minimize the chance for radiant heat from ignited plants and other materials to pose a threat to the building. 

As seen below, defensible space is usually discussed in terms of zones that extend outward from the building. Each zone has specific recommendations for types of plants, including how they should be grouped and maintained.

Defensible space zones

Three zones extend outward from the building, which is represented by the dark square in the center. 

Zone 1 (0–5 ft from the building) (also called the near-building, noncombustible or low-combustible zone)

The objective of this zone is to reduce the chance that ignition will result in a direct flame contact exposure to the building. Woody vegetation (such as trees and shrubs) should not be used in this zone. Noncombustible mulches, such as rock mulch, are recommended. Because this zone is closest to the building, it requires the most careful selection and intensive management of plants, shrubs and trees, and other materials. Dead plant materials should be removed from plants.

Zone 2 (5–30 ft or to the property line)

The objective of vegetation management in this zone is to reduce the opportunity for fire to climb into the crown or upper portions of trees or shrubs, and to minimize the opportunity for fire to burn directly to the building. Trees and shrubs in this zone should be in well-spaced groupings and well maintained. Eliminate tall grasses, hanging tree branches and other ladder fuels (plants that allow fire to climb up trees), and create separation between plants or plant groupings.. While a parking lot can provide a good source of defensible space on your property, any vegetation in the parking lot should be well maintained.

Zone 3 (30–100 ft or to the property line)

The objective of this zone is to slow down and reduce the energy of a wildfire. Tree and brush spacing should force fire in tree crowns (or fire in shrub and brush) to drop to the ground. Dead trees and shrubs should be removed. The rate of fire spread and flame length is affected by slope—a steeper slope will result in a faster-moving fire with longer flame lengths.

For  more information on protecting your building from natural hazards, see our Hanover Risk Solutions Property page.

This material is provided for informational purposes only and does not provide any coverage or guarantee loss prevention. The examples in this material are provided as hypothetical and for illustration purposes only. The Hanover Insurance Company and its affiliates and subsidiaries (“The Hanover”) specifically disclaim any warranty or representation that acceptance of any recommendations contained herein will make any premises, or operation safe or in compliance with any law or regulation. By providing this information to you, The Hanover does not assume (and specifically disclaims) any duty, undertaking or responsibility to you. The decision to accept or implement any recommendation(s) or advice contained in this material must be made by you.

LC 2021-362 and 363

It’s your ultimate investment. But more than that, it’s home.

While all homeowners need to protect their house from an array of potential dangers – your high-value home needs a better level of protection to avoid pricier fixes in the event of a claim. Cookie-cutter home insurance need not apply. 

With Hanover Prestige Home, you’ll have versatile, premium coverage options crafted specifically for your high-value house and everything of value inside it.

The Hanover’s claims data shows there are five common incidents that impact houses like yours. Learn how you can be proactive in minimizing the chances they will happen and the options Hanover Prestige Home provides in the event those incidents occur.

In addition to the valuable coverage, Hanover Prestige Home also brings you services and expertise from agents who can help you tailor a plan with flexible options that are right for your lifestyle. 

Talk to your independent agent on how Hanover Prestige can protect your high-value house from the unknown. Because it’s not just your most important investment.

It’s home.

Sources

FEMA

Insurance Information Institute

Disastersafety.org

Safewise

LC 2021-388

Priceless treasures passed down through generations. Cherished gifts from loved ones for special occasions. Whether it’s your grandmother’s Mikimoto pearls from the 1960s or a diamond necklace and earrings set from your spouse on your silver anniversary, feeling confident that your precious items are safe at home is important. Here are some ways to help make sure your jewelry is protected.

1. Keep an inventory

If you have a significant jewelry collection, it could be hard to remember every piece you own in the event of a fire or theft. Be sure to keep your receipts and take photos of the receipts, storing electronic copies securely online. Photograph each piece (including photos of you wearing each item) and store the photos on a secure photo site. Record pertinent details, including jewelry type, date of ownership, value and description in an Excel spreadsheet or inventory template.

2. Have heirloom pieces appraised and documented

Enlist the help of a licensed jewelry appraiser to evaluate your high-value pieces and determine how much each item is worth. The written appraisal will include a description of the item, its relative quality and a value.

3. Invest in a safe or lock box (and hide jewelry as needed)

According to Statista, $1.06 billion of jewelry and precious metals were stolen in 2019 alone. Additionally, jewelry is the second top item stolen during home burglaries. Nearly 70% of robbers want to steal jewelry during a home invasion and 78% percent are successful in doing so (Alarm.org). Purchasing a safe or lock box can help ensure that your valuables are secure. Keep the safe hidden and have a combination lock to further lower the risk of it being opened.

While they are a convenient place to organize your collection, jewelry boxes are the first location an intruder will look to find prized pieces. Store your precious gems and heirloom jewelry in unusual locations such as in the bottom of a coffee cup, in an envelope taped to a wall in your closet, in the back of your freezer in a small container or in the pocket of a dress blazer in your closet. The goal is to put the high-value items where someone won’t bother to look.

4. Be at home for services

All households go through periods of home repair and unexpected home services. Remember that it’s best to be home for services while people you don’t know are in your residence. Valuable items are less likely to walk away when the homeowner is nearby.

5. Install a security system

From traditional security systems to doorbell cameras and high resolution security cameras at each entrance point, there are multiple ways to protect your home while you are away.

6. Get insurance for your jewelry

Whether jewelry is passed down to you or you purchase it, stay protected with an insurance policy covering theft, damage or loss. Depending on your collection, you may be better served by coverages specifically designed to protect high-value jewelry. Hanover Prestige offers optional coverage up to $100K for priceless valuables. Not only will it set your mind at ease, it will help replace an item in the event of the unthinkable.

To learn about valuable item protection and how to keep your high-value jewelry insured, reach out to your independent insurance agent.

The bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon from your college reunion trip to Napa Valley. The cherished Château Lafleur purchased while visiting the Bordeaux region for your 25th anniversary. A loved wine collection spanning decades and continents should be protected with the utmost care. Whether you are new to collecting, or an experienced connoisseur, consider these five tips on how to best protect your wine.

1. Document your purchase  

Save the original receipts in a safe place. Take photos and descriptions of the receipts as well as the bottles. Be sure to include the vintage year, description and label. Make it easy to find a record of what you’ve purchased.

Keep a list of your inventory in a secure place. While a paper list is nice to have, an online record of your collection can be accessed from anywhere. Several wine cellar management apps are available to help keep a collection organized and readily available.

2. Understand the value

Knowing how much each bottle in your collection is worth is important. Find a licensed wine appraiser in your area and have them help you document the value of your collection so you know where to take the most care.

3. Install an alarm

A properly positioned alarm can immediately alert you with a text message in the case of flooding, a rise in heat and theft. According to the French newspaper based in Bordeaux, Sud Ouest, 20% of wine sold in the world is either stolen or fake. Wine Spectator shares a figure of 5%. Theft happens and it’s important to be safeguarded in case the unthinkable occurs.

4. Insure your collection

To protect a wine collection (especially if it is stored in your home), insurance can give peace of mind and a safety net. Depending on the policy, either entire collections or individual high- value bottles can be insured. The policy can help in the event of fire, theft, breakdowns in climate-controlled systems and more.

To learn about valuable item protection and how to keep your sentimental and costly bottles insured, reach out to your independent insurance agent for help in determining which coverage best fits your needs. Hanover Prestige offers optional coverage up to $100K for priceless valuables, including fine art and wine.

Find an agent near you

All products are underwritten by The Hanover Insurance Company or one of its insurance company subsidiaries or affiliates (“The Hanover”). Coverage may not be available in all jurisdictions and is subject to the company underwriting guidelines and the issued policy. This material is provided for informational purposes only and does not provide any coverage or guarantee loss prevention. For more information visit www.hanover.com.

As a high-end car owner, damage to your auto is more than an inconvenience – it can mean pricey replacement parts, costly repairs and losing precious time to do what you bought your car for – enjoying it.

With The Hanover’s Prestige coverage for your high-end auto, however, you have many options to help cover various common incidents and get you back on the road.

Is your high-value car covered for these factors and more? Talk to an independent insurance agent to find out. And if you have more questions about high-value car or high-value home insurance, see our FAQ page.

Sources

Statista

National Traffic Highway Safety Administration

DriversEd.com

There is a trend in pickup truck design that has led to a growing problem on the roadways.

In recent years, truck makers have pushed the envelope for bigger and more aggressive models. Compared to 2000, pickups are now 24 percent heavier and the hood height is 11 inches taller – with the largest weighing in around 7,000 pounds.

These larger pickup truck designs, however, have also meant increased safety concerns such as bigger blind spots and longer braking distances. This puts truck drivers in danger of increased likelihood for accidents with pedestrians and drivers in smaller vehicles.

When shopping for a larger pickup truck, consider some key safety tips to help minimize your chances for a dangerous accident:

Brake for AEB

As pickup trucks get bigger, the ability for them to brake becomes more difficult.

Although pickup trucks now take more effort to stop, they are less likely to come equipped with automatic emergency braking (AEB) systems than other vehicles.

Invest in a model with a quality AEB system to help yourself brake in time and reduce the chances of an accident.

Pedestrian detection tech

There is a lot more truck to look around nowadays – leaving larger blind spots for pickup truck drivers.

However, blind spot warning and pedestrian detection for the new breed of large trucks do not often come standard.

Make the choice to invest in a pickup truck with the technology to help you detect potential accidents. Any vehicle with blind spot warning and pedestrian detection technology increases your awareness of others walking or driving on the road around you.

Consider full-size truck alternatives

If smaller, compact cars are not practical enough for your lifestyle, there are options for larger vehicles without compromising safety that can perform some of the desired hauling duties of a pickup:

• Mid-sized SUVs: good for towing up to 5,000 pounds on some models or a small boat or small camper
• Compact vans: capable of hauling good amount of cargo and are easier to drive
• Smaller trucks: can carry bikes, small loads and mulch

Rent instead

Maybe you’re looking to purchase a larger pickup truck as a way to haul large items now and then or help friends move.

But how often are using an oversized pickup truck to haul tens of thousands of pounds of equipment? Renting can get your big job done and reduce the amount of drives in a vehicle with growing safety concerns.

Consider renting one with higher rental limits, as full-sized trucks typically command higher fees.

Talk to your agent

If you are not sure what protection is best for your truck – no matter what size it is – talk to your independent insurance agent. Be sure to ask about higher liability limits.

Sources

Consumer Reports

Bloomberg

LC 2021-358

You've worked hard all season to keep your boat in seaworthy shape. Boat maintenance, however, does not stop just because your ride around the water did.

Removing your boat and laying it up for the winter season takes thought and planning, so you can keep your vessel in quality long-term health once the favorable boating conditions return. Consider these tips for laying your boat up for a long duration:

Clean

Make sure to remove all of your boating equipment, including any seat cushions, removable electronic equipment, bed linens, lines, etc.

If you are hauling out the boat yourself, get a jump on boat prep for next year by waxing and scrubbing your boat thoroughly.

1. Wash everything: the bottom, the trailer, deck and topsides.
2. Take down your lines and soak them with soap and water. This step is extra important if your boat has been in salt water.
3. Wash all the way to the bilge to ensure less work in the spring – and a reduced chance of unpleasant smells or mold awaiting you.

Remove all fluids

All it takes is a small sample of harsh winter to wreak havoc on your boat by freezing those interior liquids. Take the time to remove those fluids and properly winterize your boat.

For outboard motors:

1. Add fuel stabilizer and completely fill your tank to prevent condensation from building.
2. Flush your cooling system with freshwater from a five-gallon bucket and then disconnect the in-take hose.
3. Run the engine for 15-20 minutes with the hose still in the bucket, and then add RV antifreeze to the bucket.
4. Turn off your engine and reconnect your in-take hose.
5. Change the oil filter and oil.

For freshwater systems:

If your boat has a motorized pump, fill it with antifreeze. If your boat has a mechanical pump, drain it.

Battery

Keep your boat’s battery charged. When your boat is at home, or if your batteries are removable and chargeable at home, make sure to take steps to keep them charged.

If your watercraft is being housed at a boatyard, invest in a small solar panel that can be used to maintain your battery’s level of charge. If that isn’t an option, schedule a couple times during the winter to visit your boat and recharge the battery using extension cords or get yourself battery pack chargers that can constantly drip-charge your battery during the offseason.

Cover the boat

No matter where you live, take steps to properly cover your boat for the winter months in order to prevent outside elements such as weather and debris from wearing your ride down.

Consider shrink-wrapping the boat to prevent rodents and other critters from getting inside the boat. It can also add an extra layer of protection against Mother Nature.

If this i your first year, consider starting a checklist to make notes every year so you build a concise approach to preserving your boat until the following spring.

Talk safety with boat yard

If you are looking to store your boat in a secure location such as a boat yard, talk to those in charge to see what security measures they take, such as video monitoring and gates, and see what sort of insurance options they have available.

Sources

Boat Trader

Marlin mag

Boaterexam.com

LC 2021-401

If you are unsure about your coverage – or have a lifestyle change project in mind – talk to your independent agent about your insurance options.